Saints, Trompos, Tunas y La Virgen de Granada

Myles, Jacob, Iker y Owen

The past two weeks have given us the time to ground ourselves in our little flat in the Albaycin.  The boys have developed a good sense of place in school and with friends and I've been able to organize myself too. Although we've lived in Granada for a month already, I just now feel as though we have a good rhythm in our routine.  One of the best things that has happened has been that Myles and Owen have developed friendships with some great kids.  It's the little things that mean the most, like when a friend stops by and asks us to go to the park with him. When we're at the park, I love to bring a book and pretend to read, but actually I'm listening to the kids trying to figure out how to communicate amongst themselves.  It's so refreshing that they don't get frustrated with their language deficiencies nor do they waste time thinking of how to correctly conjugate verbs.  They play, laugh, yell, run, and it's all good.  By the end of their playtime, they've learned another handful of words and phrases in Spanish...usually they remember them, but not always.

Futbol con amigos del colegio Gomez Moreno

Two of the popular activities to do at the park and at school are, of course, "futbol", soccer, and "trompos".  Trompos are simple spinning tops that the kids fling and spin. They constantly try to do tricks and have "competiciones and batallas" to see who can do the best and most innovative trick.  It's such a simple game and they love it!  The trompos are sold at the corner newspaper kiosks and they are a hot, hot, hot item right now!

Owen and our friend, Osama with a trompo

Besides hanging with the amigos, we continue to wander about the Albaycin's maze of intricate little streets on a daily basis. There have been a couple interesting events that we've seen and experienced that now when I look back upon them, have been our first tastes of serious Spanish Catholicism, that will continue to have more meaning to us as the year progresses. Two weeks ago we woke up to many church bells ringing.  It wasn't your typical Sunday morning reminder to-get-your-butt-out-of-bed-and-get-to-church-type of ringing.  And it went on for a good hour. Ok, ok, already, we said.  Let's go find out what's going on!  Take a listen...

An hour later, we are walking down to Plaza Nueva to Pan y chocolate to get our daily bread, (no religious connotation here) and there are massive amounts of people in the square. Our local kiosk is not only the trompo vender and jazz music connoisseur, but also knows who's who and what's happening in Granada and Andalucia as a whole.  (By the way, he also knows which paper to buy depending upon which political stance you take).  He informs us that yes, today, there is a SAINT being named in Granada and some 500,000 people have come from all over to witness this event.  His name is Fray Leopoldo, and he looks just like any other kind, serene friar you've perhaps seen in photos.  His is also known as the "beggar of the three Hail Marys".  This event, of course, spurs numerous conversations with the boys, one of which is the following.  Owen asks, "Mom, what's  a saint?"  And a couple minutes later, "How do you become a saint?"  Well, the story I was told by Richard and Esperanza is that you have to perform various miracles.  "What's a miracle?"  Well, sometimes I feel as though it's been a miracle that we've been able to do what we have so far!  Brad thinks I'M a saint because he has a hall pass for over 2 months (just kidding, sweetie). I guess we all have our different levels of miracles that happen on a daily basis.  And the conversation goes on and on from here.  You can imagine.  

Ever eaten a freshly picked date? (yellow, on left)  They're delicious!

And today we are two weeks later and the Virgen of Granada is appearing!  They are carrying her down the paseo of Reyes Católicos and everyone is in a festive mood.  The older ladies are dressed to the hilt, little girls are adorned with silk ribbons in their hair, fireworks are exploding in various plazas throughout the city, and a great fair takes place in the Plaza de las Batallas.  Besides the Virgen appearing, the fair sells loads of fall harvests of fruit, nuts, pasteles and the like.  Some of the most popular are dates, both dried and fresh, all sorts of nuts, almonds, walnuts, pistahcios, etc., tortas that are creme-filled and sugar-topped and the others that come with chicharrones (meat) inside and on top.  Not knowing the history of this particular Virgen, nor wishing to talk about what a virgin is, I'm likening it to a fall harvest festival.  I guess that's my horticultural background coming out.

Pasteles y tortas

On our way home from the Plaza we are strolling up our regular walk up through the old Arabic mercantile area where all the Teterías are located (teterías are quaint, intimate tea houses) when we come upon a Tuna!  No, this is not an open fish market but a band of wonderful musicians that stroll through town playing typical spanish songs.  When I lived in Madrid (some 20+ years ago...eek!) about every 2 weeks various "tunas" would walk through our streets and practice their musical sets.  Tunas are usually formed by a group of university students who like to play music on the side, kind of like your local garage band, I guess.  They are not musicians for a living, but could be!  They usually sing to the people walking by and often get everyone involved in a few songs, whether choosing to sing and/or dance.  It's a live walking concert for all.  The group that we met had just played for a wedding, they said, and now were going to make their way up to the Albaycin.  Fortunately, about an hour later, we're home and what do you know, they come strolling by!  Here's a clip to share with you.  (By the way, I carry my camera everywhere and never miss a beat!)

And while we're on the path of street musicians I'll add a couple more clips I think you'll all enjoy.  The first one is of Nicholas playing a percussion instrument called a "Hang".  

Owen playing a Hang.
For those of you linguists, come on, I know you're out there, Hang is pronounced [haŋ]. It's looks like an enclosed steel drum and is one of the most beautiful sounds I've heard in a long time (except for the canyon wren of the southwest).  We sat for probably an hour, mesmerized by the sound.  It was a Sunday morning and we decided to take Tana, our former landlord's dog, out for a stroll.  This is what we do on a daily basis....go for a stroll that is.  Everyone does it and it makes for a lovely way to pass the time.  Usually you run into someone you know or a street performer or musician.  It's such a nice way to be out and about instead of in front of the tele...and we never USE A CAR!!!!!  (can you tell I don't miss having to get into a car every day?)

As I was downloading this clip I realized how much was really happening in this video outside of Nicholas playing the Hang.  There are people on bikes (there is a mtn. bike trail just up the hill called "llano de la perdiz"), on vespas, walking, etc.  You hear talking, the sounds of the Hang and in the distance you can hear someone playing the castanets toward the end of the clip.  Take a listen...

Is this blog long enough now?  I need to post shorter blogs more frequently but it seemed as though this one took on a life of its own.  It's great to hear from you all.  Thanks for your support and interest in our adventure!  Last but not least, quotes from the boys that have made the blog.  (you know there's no way I can remember these by heart, so I carry a little notebook, which I call my brain, thanks Brad, with me and jot them down, even in the middle of walking down the street)


"Mira, mama, how I wrapped my trompo!" (3 out of 7 isn't bad)
"Why are only black people selling things?"
"¡Caca, estúpida caca!"
"Are you crazy, mom?"
"Finally I remembered baño when I needed to!"
"¡Vete, ya!" (Javier said this to Myles)
"Myles, ven por aquí!" (Iker yelling at Myles)
"You should check his whiteboard out, mom!"
"The English teacher is crazy!"
"I like our little house, don't you?"
"Mama, Pepillo gave me a trompo!"
"I learned a new word, mom, ¡pásalo!" ("pass it" in fútbol)


Until the next saints day, perhaps?  Next blog I'll post how much fun we had with the Pretti clan when they stayed in Granada for a couple days!

Owen, Winston, Myles y Aidan in the Plaza de las Batallas

ok, ok, ok, I have to add one last video clip...this was of another impromptu musical display in the calle Calderia (where all the tea shops are).  We are in a very small little plaza, the boys are spinning their trompos with the Prettis and some locals and there is no way you can be still with music and energy like this!

¡VENGA!